A Day in Spain- Using the Summer to Explore a New Culture
Today was the Festividad de San Fernando in Sevilla, so we had off from our language classes. I just finished eating dinner with Lola (my host mom) and two other girls from Wisconsin studying here in a different program. We had the most delicious homemade butternut squash soup and white fish. Now, I have stepped outside on the patio outside my bedroom to reflect on the culturally significant day.
This morning, Lola took us all out for churros for breakfast. She said it was a very special day and that we could not leave Sevilla without trying them. To be honest, churros are not my favorite, but I appreciated Lola’s gesture of kindness so much and did not want to disappoint her, so I ate them anyway, and they were actually quite good. I noticed a lot more people than usual eating them this morning, and I wonder if it is a tradition for the holiday or if it was simply because the whole city is off from work.
After churros, I headed to the Plaza de Los Reyes to watch the grand procession arrive at the entrance to the Cathedral of Sevilla, which happens to be the third largest cathedral in all of Europe. It was an extremely hot, sunny morning and I had not planned ahead and worn sunscreen, which was a mistake. I found a place to sit on the perimeter of the large fountain in the center of the plaza and watched the Sevillians dressed in their best suits and elaborate dresses march by in the procession. Every time a large statue went by, the woman sitting to my right would stand up on the ledge of the fountain to get a better view. I decided to copy her, hoping that I would not lose my balance and fall into the water.
Although I was roasting in the sun, the statues that came by were absolutely stunning and the reverence and sincerity with which they were carried created such beauty and awe that I stayed for the entire time. I made friends with an older woman in a bright red pantsuit sitting to my left. I think she wanted someone to talk to, because first she asked if I was from France and then proceeded to tell me her whole life story (in Spanish, of course). I understood nearly all of what she said even though it was very loud from all of the holiday chatter and music. I watched as several young children dressed in their “Sunday best” with their knee socks and shiny shoes came over to the fountain and dunked the tops of their heads in order to cool off. One little girl was not tall enough to reach, so her mom helped her by scooping some water in her hand and saying I baptize you “en el nombre del Padre, y del Hijo, y del Espiritu Santo.” The little girl smiled and made the sign of the cross. It was an admirable moment in the midst of the surrounding celebrations and chaos. To be honest, I cannot think of a single religious event in America that compares to this. The entire city was united; it was something I wish we experienced more of back home in the states.
When the procession ended, I said goodbye to my new friend with besitos (the “little kisses” on either cheek that are popular in Spanish culture) and tried to head home to Lola’s flat, but I realized the normally 5-minute walk was going to take much longer because everyone was heading either home or to a restaurant at the same time. I was stuck on a narrow street with hundreds of window decorations which included statues of Baby Jesus, Mary, San Fernando, and other figures of religious importance. Everyone was trying to take pictures, some were trying to view restaurant menus, and others were pushing their way through the crowded street. It took me 45 minutes to get home! Although I was frustrated by how slowly we were moving at first, after a few minutes I decided to just take everything in and enjoy the journey. Moving so slowly forced me to live in the moment. I generally walk very quickly, but today I could not, and there was nothing I could do about it. For the first time in a long time, I let my senses lead the way, tried to take in as much as I could, and decided maybe I should walk a little slower to allow myself to be in the moment a bit more often.